Norway and Sweden, February 2023 (by Luke, August 2025)

I turned 40 in 2023 - it ended up being a rather big year of celebrations. Gill took the lead on the first foreign holiday of the year as a way of starting the festivities early and it did not disappoint. We had an amazing, action packed adventure in Norway and Sweden at the start of the year.

As an aside - I think that this holiday was meant to be a surprise for me. I don't know whether we are just immature, or rubbish at secrets, or whether it's actually quite normal but we are both terrible at keeping things a surprise from each other. I see it as a good thing - if I arrange something exciting I always want to share it with Gill, and vice versa.

A big part of a trip to colder climes was due to the taste of it that we had visiting Iceland in 2015, as well as it just being something totally different. We had visited Stockholm briefly a few years previously but the very north of Sweden in winter was a very different prospect. First up on this trip came Norway though.

Day one - the journey, and exploring Tromsø

We had an early flight out of Heathrow on the Wednesday and admired the glow of the sunrise as we flew over London. As we approached Oslo we noticed frozen rivers and cleared roads, then the islands on the outskirts of Oslo itself...Oslo is such a pretty city to fly into.

We didn't have long at the airport until our next flight so made our way to the gate. We did have time to notice that in Norwegian a defibrillator is called a hjertestarter...this still tickles me now! An hour or so after landing in Oslo we were on the plane to Tromsø, a two hour flight that saves a 1750km road journey. Once the plane had been sprayed with deicer we set off. The scenery from the plane was stunning, I took so many awful pictures through the windows.

As we were coming in to land it was really noticeable that the shadows were lengthening and it was starting to get dark. Because we had flown so far North in our 5 hours of flying, we had travelled from sunrise to sunset. It's probably important to mention that actual darkness took a while, but the official sunset time for 1st February when we arrived was 14:33. A day is just over 5 hours of sunlight at the start of the month, but by the end of February is over 9 hours.

Collecting our cases and the journey to the hotel was relatively straightforward. The drive included a trip through one of Tromsø's tunnels...this was unlike anything I've seen before. There were junctions in the tunnel where other roads joined, and even underground roundabouts - incredible engineering. At the time of writing (August 2025) the Langnestunnelen is closed for upgrade/repairs that were due to take a year when they started in March. After spending the majority of the journey underground we popped out in Tromsø and were dropped at the Scandic Ishavs hotel which is right on the quayside.

No chance of a picture of the hotel when the view from the carpark is this good!

Once checked in we changed into some cold weather clothing, grabbed a quick snack at the hotel and set off to explore Tromsø on foot in the last light of the (still) setting sun. We headed for the snow covered peaks that we could see across the river from our hotel, this meant crossing the iconic Tromsø bridge, passing the cathedral (more on that later) and getting in a cable car. The journey was well worth it - we were treated to a stunning sunset (that was still going!) and broad views of the city lights.

After heading down in the cable car we walked to the Arctic Cathedral that we had passed on the way out. We only saw it from the outside but it was a thing of beauty. It was built in 1965 and must have been well ahead of its time (I imagine that not everyone would have been massively enthusiastic about it back then!) The angled roof is made up of aluminium coated concrete panels and there is a striking stained glass mosaic at one end.

We walked back to the hotel, got showered and changed then headed out for dinner that we had prebooked at Emma's Dream Kitchen. The restaurant is in the same square as Tromsø's other cathedral which is the only Norwegian Protestant cathedral made of wood, and the world’s northernmost Protestant cathedral. Back to food - we ate the taster menu at Emma's and it was incredible, definitely up there with the fine dining that we have experienced elsewhere. The wine pairing that we had with the 9 course taster menu worked really nicely, and the service was warm and friendly - all in all a great experience.

As we walked back to the hotel we kept our eyes to the sky for glimpses of the Northern Lights but we didn't see any this time.

Day two - in and around Tromsø

Day two started relatively relaxed with breakfast at the hotel before getting changed into cold weather clothes and heading out. You may have noticed that the order of eating and changing was different from day one. We learnt very quickly on the first day that while it may be cold outside, it certainly wasn't when you were inside! I think I may have even finished my snack while walking just to get to a temperature that worked for the clothes I had on!

Our first activity of the day was dog sledding at the Tromsø Wilderness Center. This location was only around 8km as the crow flies from our hotel but the drive took around 30 minutes and treated us to some stunning winter wonderland scenery. We also got to enjoy the sun finally peeking above the horizon at around 10:00 as well as spotting reindeer (which was never boring, no matter how many you saw).

Once we arrived the first thing we did was go through a safety briefing. This also covered the dogs welfare too which was nice to hear - we were told that the 'driver' needed to get off and run on uphill sections to help the dogs (and lighten their load). Having done this a few times I can confirm that the dogs definitely earn their post run snack!

We took turns in steering the dogs through the snow covered landscape. It was so much fun that we didn't really notice the cold until we stopped. Gill's hair froze and I had icy eyelashes - all part of the experience! Once back at the Wilderness Centre we met a selection of their dogs. Despite being hardy working dogs they all loved a fuss and it was a pleasure to be able to spend some time with them.

The last part of the adventure gave us more of an insight into the traditional life of the indigenous Sámi people. We were taken inside a gamme hut where we were were served bidos. A gamme hut is a traditional Sámi hut which is covered in either fabric, peat moss or wood. Bidos is a traditional Sámi soup made with reindeer meat, potato and carrot. The hut was lovely and warm, as was the soup. It was hearty, tasty, and everything that you needed when it was in the minus numbers outside. Lunch was rounded off with a hot chocolate before we travelled back to Tromsø.

In the evening we walked across the city to the meeting point for our next trip - a Northern Lights chase. We headed to just outside Breivikeidet, a remote village around 50km outside Tromsø. When we arrived we were shown around the 'Aurora Camp' which had all the facilities that you could need for a 4 - 6 hour session of Northern light spotting when the temperature was well below -20°C. At first the highlight of the camp was a lavvu tent. This traditional Sámi tent is similar to a tipi and was complete with a roaring fire which provided so much warmth. The fire was also great for roasting marshmallows, heating hot chocolate and cooking dinner.

Our guide was constantly communicating with other guides on trips in other areas and explained that if there were reports of sightings in different places that we would pack up and get over to them (and vice versa). After a while of hopefully looking at the sky I saw a really faint green glow and was beyond excited when our guide said that it was the aurora! Once we had got our eye in we saw more and more, and then it started getting brighter...it was remarkable.

We watched the lights dancing across the sky for ages until it was time to leave. Even leaving was interrupted by the aurora. We had all got on the coach, taken our coats off and were ready to set off when they erupted back into view...we dashed outside for more pictures! We actually managed to set off on the second attempt and arrived back in the city at around 01:30.

Day 3 - Tromsø to Narvik

Our time in Tromsø finished on Friday morning when we had to be up relatively early to check out of the Scandic Ishavs Hotel and get a transfer to Narvik. What started as a busy coach dwindled to just the two of us and the driver after a couple of stops - we had plenty of space on the 56 seater from the remainder of the 230km journey. We both sat up front and spent almost all of the journey chatting to the driver. He was a retired lorry driver who had delivered to England frequently so it was fun hearing his stories and comparing them to our experiences in the logistics sector. The scenery was stunning, both of us took so many pictures through the windows on route.

We checked into the Scandic Narvik hotel, dropped our bags off and headed straight out. First task was lunch, we ate at Fiskekroken which is just along the road from the hotel. Based in the fish market they serve amazingly tasty fresh fish, along with a selection of local lagers.

Next up was a short (but hilly and tiring) walk to the cablecar at the ski resort of Narvikfjellet. This is northern Norway's largest ski resort but we were just there to sightsee, rather than take part in any strenuous activity. The cable car quickly took us the remaining 440 meters up the mountain where we enjoyed views of Ofotfjord, Narvik, and the setting sun.

A lot of Narvik is quite industrial as it is the nearest deepwater port for the immense iron mine at Kiruna. The town was subject to heavy fighting during World War 2 when the Germans took the port to serve their metal needs. We enjoyed some sweet treats and a couple of beers in the Mountain Lift Restaurant. From its terrace/viewpoint 656m above sea level you really got a sense of how much happened in Narvik - trains bringing ore in, ships taking it out, there was so much going on.

We headed back down the cable car, walked down the big hill and back to the hotel. The hotel itself was very modern looking. It is one of northern Norway's tallest buildings and is home to Tøtta Bar, a sky bar. We (of course) had to stop in the sky bar for a few cocktails before heading down to the hotel's restaurant for dinner.

After dinner we went for a short walk to see some closer views of what we had seen from up high earlier. The ore wagons are massive up close. Each train is made up of 68 wagons, carrying around 100 tonnes of iron ore per wagon. The port of Narvik has a capacity of over 30 million tonnes of ore per year...everything happens on a huge scale. Our walk also took us to the edge of the fjord next to Narvik Marina, it's always nice to be near the water.

Day 4 - Norway to Sweden, then the Icehotel

After breakfast we headed to Narvik station to complete the reverse journey that the iron ore makes - next stop Kiruna.

The 3 hour journey was comfortable, warm and ever so picturesque. It was another trip that involved loads of pictures through the windows. On arrival at Kiruna we had time for more photos before we were picked up for the 20 minute transfer to the Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi.

It was -19°C when we arrived at the Icehotel so we were very happy to get our snowsuits issued so we could explore comfortably. First up was the bar for a refreshing drink or three, then we had lots of fun sliding down an ice slope.

After some food we went for a walk around the rooms and admired the work of the highly talented designers who we responsible for them (and tried to guess which room we'd end up in...we were wrong!) We had a walk around the site and, down by the river, found some lovely deep snow that I accidentally bumped Gill into...the joys of snow suits!

After plenty of time playing we went to the meeting point for our evening activity, hunting the Northern Lights on snowmobile. We headed out into the very cold, very empty and very dark wilderness but unfortunately the Northern Lights didn't put on a show for us. It was great being out regardless though, and Gill actually trusted me to drive all the way.

We stopped for dinner in a wood cabin and spent a while chatting with some of the other guests on the trip. There were people from lots of different places but the majority were Swedes who were treating themselves to a staycation to do something totally different. They spent quite a lot of time talking about the Swedish term 'lagom' which translates to 'just the right amount' or 'not too much, not too little'.

This mantra guides a lot of people in Sweden and helps them to aim to battle excess - whether this is food, explanations, stress, or anything in between. It can be seemingly trivial things - why explain why you are late when just an apology will do? Instead of wasting other people's time (or your own) with potentially unrequired words; you deal with it and move on. Lagom also covers important things like ensuring you take just enough of something for you in order to make sure that there is plenty to go round everyone else. It is much more than just those limited examples though; it is like a compass that guides daily choices with the aim of reducing stress levels and making people more satisfied with their lives.

Some other examples of lagom from the Visit Sweden website are:

• Hanging out just enough to enjoy each other’s company, without overdoing it

• Decorating with simplicity and function, rather than flashiness

• Working hard enough to be productive, without burning out

• Wearing just the right amount of clothing for the weather (even if no one agrees on what 'lagom' warmth actually is)

Lagom is a really cool concept and it seemed fitting to spend our last night in Sweden finding out about it. I love how much you learn about other cultures from informal, relaxed conversations like this - travel is so good for the mind.

Once we had finished talking we got back onto our snowmobiles and headed straight down the frozen river back to the Icehotel. After dropping off our helmets we went to the bar for a while before getting ready for bed. This is not as simple as it is at home, mainly because your bedroom is around -5°C! All of the main getting ready is done in a changing room then, when you are done you walk through to your room carrying your sleeping bag. In the room you quickly hop in to the sleeping bag, keeping your hat on, and making sure that you don't breathe inside the bag as the condensation will freeze!

We made a pact with each other that we'd go together if either of us needed to visit the toilet during the night as this involved going back to the changing rooms. We were given a top tip at the introduction/briefing to make sure we folded the top of our sleeping bag over if we did need to leave it, in order to stop the heat escaping - this worked a dream.

Our (ice) bed for the night

Day 5 - Icehotel to Kiruna, then home via Stockholm

While it might not sound likely after the slightly unconventional arrival to a bed carved from ice, in a room that was -5°C, we both slept so well! I think that was partly due to the cold, and how quiet it was too. We both woke up refreshed and ready for the journey home.

Before setting off we went for a bit of a walk around the Icehotel site to enjoy every last minute of the snow and cold.

The transfer minibus took us to Kiruna airport for our flight to Stockholm. In Kiruna the runway and apron at the airport were covered in snow but, unlike at home, this didn't affect things one bit and we took off on time. Things continuing despite the conditions was a theme for the whole holiday really; it's so much easier when you are used to the roads being covered in snow/ice to just 'get on with it' I suppose. Proper cold is so infrequent in the UK that it takes everyone by surprise and leads to massive delays - no excuse for that when it is a regular occurrence like in Scandinavia.

Everything isn't about 'getting on with it' though - there is a lot of preparation involved too. While we were waiting for our flight to Heathrow from Stockholm Arlanda airport we were both amazed by the organisation that went into making sure the surfaces outside were usable. I've never seen so many snow ploughs as we did while recording the video below...but you can be sure that it was just the right amount for the task in hand - well done Sweden!

We really enjoyed our time in Norway and Sweden and it seemed to be the perfect balance. Not too short, not too long...lagom!

The scenery was stunning. The beauty of the snowy landscape, frozen rivers and fjords is as dramatically different to being at home as a sunny beach is.

I particularly enjoyed sampling some small elements of the traditional Sámi culture. Their food is so warming and hearty, perfect for the conditions.

All of the people we interacted with were welcoming and enthusiastic. Special mentions go to our waitress at Emma's Dream Kitchen who made us feel at home on our first night, our guide for the Northern Lights hunt from Tromsø who, despite seeing the aurora as her job, seemed as excited as we did; and our 'private coach' driver who had a story for every occasion.

Seeing the Northern Lights was incredible and something that I'll remember forever. I've long been fascinated/amazed by them. They are a result of the main thing that stops earth being stripped bare by the sun like Mars has been and to be able to see them in action makes you realise both how small and how lucky the human race is. I think a big part of the intrigue around the Northern Lights came from failing to see them in Iceland but to get to in Norway and then a couple of times subsequently in England has more than made up for that.

Gill has recently completed a course as a 'Norway Expert' through the Norwegian Tourist Board as part of her development as an Independent Travel Agent. She'll be happy to use her knowledge to help design and book your perfect trip - please get in touch to start planning your visit to this amazing part of the world.